Understanding Fabrics: Linen, Cotton, Wool and Polyester
When we choose clothing, we are often drawn to colour, cut, or how something feels on our skin. But behind every garment is a fabric with its own story. How it is made, how it behaves over time, and what happens when it reaches the end of its life all matter. Understanding these differences helps us make more informed, longer-lasting choices.
Below is a simple breakdown of four commonly used fabrics: linen, cotton, wool and polyester.
Linen
How it’s made
Linen is made from the fibres of the flax plant, one of the oldest cultivated plants in the world. Flax grows quickly, requires significantly less water than many other crops, and typically needs little to no pesticides or fertilisers. Almost the entire plant can be used, making it a low-waste fibre.
Dyeing process
Linen takes natural and low-impact dyes well due to its cellulose structure. While it can be dyed conventionally, it does not require the harsh chemical dyes often needed for synthetic fibres.
Fabric properties
Linen is breathable, lightweight, and naturally temperature-regulating. It allows heat to escape in warm weather while still offering comfort in cooler conditions. Its relaxed texture softens with wear, making it a fabric that improves over time rather than wearing out.
End of life
As a fully natural fibre, linen is biodegradable. Under composting conditions, it can break down in a matter of weeks to months, returning to the soil without leaving harmful residues.
Cotton
How it’s made
Cotton is grown from the cotton plant and is one of the most widely used natural fibres globally. Conventional cotton can be water-intensive and often relies on pesticides, though organic cotton significantly reduces both water usage and chemical inputs.
Dyeing process
Cotton absorbs dyes easily, which means it can be dyed with both natural and synthetic dyes. However, conventional dyeing processes can still involve heavy water use and chemical treatments unless low-impact or natural dyes are used.
Fabric properties
Cotton is soft, breathable, and comfortable against the skin. It is versatile and suitable for everyday wear, though it does not regulate temperature as effectively as linen or wool and can retain moisture once wet.
End of life
Cotton is biodegradable and will break down naturally over several months, depending on environmental conditions and whether it has been treated with synthetic finishes.
Wool
How it’s made
Wool is a natural protein fibre shorn from sheep. When managed responsibly, wool is a renewable resource, as sheep regrow their fleece each year. The fibre is processed through cleaning, carding and spinning without the need for synthetic creation.
Dyeing process
Wool bonds well with dyes, meaning it often requires lower temperatures and fewer aggressive chemicals during dyeing. It can also be dyed with plant-based and low-impact dyes more easily than synthetic fibres.
Fabric properties
Wool is naturally moisture-wicking, breathable and temperature-regulating, making it suitable for both warm and cool climates. It resists odour, insulates even when wet, and is naturally elastic, contributing to garments that hold their shape and last longer.
End of life
Wool is biodegradable and will break down in a few months to a year, releasing nutrients back into the soil rather than pollutants.
Polyester
How it’s made
Polyester is a synthetic fibre made from petroleum. It is manufactured through an energy-intensive chemical process rather than grown, and relies entirely on fossil fuels.
Dyeing process
Polyester requires disperse dyes, which often involve high temperatures and chemical carriers. Many of these dyes and finishing agents are considered toxic, both to waterways and to the people involved in their production.
Fabric properties
Polyester is durable and wrinkle-resistant, but it is not breathable in the same way as natural fibres. It traps heat and moisture, which can make it uncomfortable to wear over long periods. It also sheds microplastics during washing.
End of life
Polyester does not biodegrade. Instead, it breaks down into smaller plastic fragments, eventually becoming microplastic pellets that persist in the environment indefinitely. Even recycled polyester still requires new polyester input to maintain fibre strength, meaning it continues to rely on virgin plastic and never truly becomes circular.
Fabric Summary: At a Glance
- Linen is a low-water, low-chemical fibre that is breathable, long-lasting, and compostable at the end of its life.
- Cotton is soft and versatile, biodegradable, and more sustainable when organically grown and responsibly dyed.
- Wool is a renewable, temperature-regulating fibre that performs across seasons and naturally returns to the earth.
- Polyester is plastic-based, energy-intensive to produce, sheds microplastics, and never fully breaks down, even when recycled.
Understanding fabric choices allows us to move toward wardrobes built on longevity, care, and materials that work in harmony with both our bodies and the environment.
Explore our linen range here
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