Is “Vegan Leather” Really Sustainable? Let’s Talk About Polyurethane

We’re in an age where buzzwords like “eco-friendly” and “vegan” show up in almost every corner of the fashion industry. It’s a promising sign that more people are asking better questions — but it also means that the answers are becoming a little more slippery.

One of the biggest culprits? Vegan leather. More specifically, polyurethane, or PU — the plastic used in most vegan leather alternatives.

At a glance, these materials sound like a win: no animals harmed, a sleek leather-look finish, and the durability to survive your daily handbag toss or rainy commute. But when you start looking under the surface — literally and figuratively — a different picture emerges.

So, what is polyurethane, really?

Polyurethane is a plastic. It was first developed in the 1930s and has since found its way into almost every industry: car parts, furniture, insulation, surfboards, activewear, and fashion accessories. It can be flexible or rigid, depending on how it’s made. In clothing, it’s often used as a coating on fabrics (to make them water-resistant or “wipe-clean”), and most notably, it’s a key ingredient in vegan leather.

If you've ever bought a faux leather handbag, jacket, or shoe that was labelled “vegan,” there's a very good chance it was made with PU.

Wait… so vegan leather = plastic?

Yes — in most cases. While there are plant-based leathers made from things like mushrooms, pineapple leaves, or apple skins, most of these are still blended with polyurethane to give them strength and durability. Otherwise, they wouldn't hold up for long-term use.

And this is where the problem lies: we’re swapping animal-derived materials for plastic-based ones, and calling it progress. But the truth is, we’re just replacing one issue with another — and in some ways, making things worse.

Why it matters

• PU is made from fossil fuels, and its production contributes to greenhouse gas emissions.

• It doesn’t biodegrade, meaning it sits in landfill for hundreds of years.

• It sheds microplastics over time, especially when worn or washed.

• When burned or poorly disposed of, it releases toxic chemicals.

• The manufacturing process involves hazardous chemicals called isocyanates, which can cause serious health issues for workers.

Even the newer “bio-based” versions of PU (derived from things like vegetable oil or water) are still, at the end of the day, plastic — and still shed microplastics.

So while a polyurethane handbag might save an animal, it doesn’t exactly save the planet.

So, what’s the better option?

The truth is: there’s no perfect material. But there are better ones.

At Devina Louise, we choose to work with 100% natural fibres — like linen, cotton, and wool — not because it’s trendy, but because it’s what feels right for both people and planet. Natural fibres break down safely, breathe better, and age beautifully — without releasing microplastics into our waterways or toxins into the soil.

For accessories like bags or shoes, look for:

• Undyed or vegetable-tanned leather (ethically sourced if possible)

• Cork (renewable, lightweight, biodegradable)

• Washable paper (yes, it’s a thing — and it’s strong!)

• MIRUM – a newer plastic-free material made with natural rubber and plant-based oils

And if you’re choosing vegan for ethical reasons, that’s a beautiful intention — just be aware of what’s behind the label, and consider the full lifecycle of the item you're buying.

Final thoughts

Sustainability is rarely black and white. “Vegan” doesn’t always mean “eco-friendly”, and “natural” doesn’t always mean perfect either. But when you start asking the deeper questions — What is this made of? Where does it go when I’m done with it? Who made it and how? — you’re on the right track.

At the end of the day, fashion should feel good — on your skin, in your life, and on your conscience.